Stub-born: /ˈstəbərn/ adjetive
having or showing dogged determination not to change one's attitude or position on something, especially in spite of good arguments or reasons to do so.

Have you ever referred to your dog as stubborn or had another trainer say this about your dog? Is the dog actually stubborn or is the human? If we keep doing something that is not working and we know it isn't working then aren't we being the stubborn ones? Especially if we know there are other methods that may work better?

First we need to find proper motivation. Just like we may be motivated by different things, so are dogs. Using my own dogs as an example I have one that is ball or toy motivated. She will do anything, absolutely anything, for a ball or squeaky toy. I have one that is very food motivated. Especially when it comes to cheese. Then I have one that will do anything to get a drink of water from a water bottle. Last, our newest arrival, changes what motivates him.  Sometimes it's food and sometimes it's attention.   Motivation can change, depending upon their mood (and if they are hungry). Learning what motivates them gives us a better relationship, mutual respect and a less frustration.

What doesn't motivate? Punishment.  Punishment suppresses, it does not build a relationship based on respect or trust.  It also causes confusion and can lead to fall out behaviors of anxiety, fearfulness, and even aggression. 

​Does your dog have a behavior that is driving you nuts? Perhaps they are getting into the garbage, counter surfing or jumping on people. Every time Fido does this unwarned behavior he is rewarded.  Either by your attention or his prize off the counter or garbage can.   To resolve the unwanted behavior we have to first identify what we would like them to do instead. Then we put in a management plan to prevent the dog from doing the unwanted behavior while we work on the new skill.

Management is the most important step because every time the dog does the unwanted behavior that bad habit is reinforced, sometimes unintentionally and sometimes the behavior is self rewarding.
which makes it much more likely to continue. If you push a dog away while they jump they are excited and rewarded by the attention.  Counter surfing or getting in the garbage are self rewarding in that they usually find a prize.

After we make sure the behavior cannot continue we  focus on teaching the new skill and getting it generalized to lots of different environments and situations. Station training for jumping, leave its for the garbage and counter surfing.  We also want to add enrichment to keep their brains busy so they are less likely to get into trouble. 

If you need help we are here. Email ronda@29K9.net.

First Introductions
              First introductions should be outside, preferably in neutral turf.  Take the dogs on  a side by side walk. This helps tire an active puppy and while providing a happy back drop before entering the yard and home.

  Supervise
              It is important that all early interactions be supervised.  Whether a new puppy or an older
dog it can take a few weeks for everyone to get used to the new family member and new normal.  Watching body language closely during this adjustment period can help prevent future problems.   Separate the dogs if you are not able to closely supervise, especially during the first 3 weeks, until they have time to adjust to each other.
 
Separate
              Baby Gates, crates and Xpens make great separators so that the dogs can have down time where they feel safe and comfortable.   Separate eating areas since new puppies can be overly curious and older dogs may not appreciate a puppy interrupting them.
 
Escape Route
              Make sure there is always an escape route so that the dogs don’t feel cornered.  Have a clear path to get away can make the difference in whether a dog goes for the bite or not.
 
No Punishment
              No matter what happens do not punish either dog.  Punishment can make a bad association between the dogs resulting in escalation of aggressive type behaviors.
 
Reward
              Reward when the dogs are getting along, whether playing with or simply being in the same room, be sure to reward with attention, special treats or even going outside.  This will help cement that good things happen when the other dog is around.
 
Intervene
              Watch for body language that indicates a problem may develop and intervene early with time apart to de-escalate.  Older dogs may be tolerant up to a point so watching their eyes, ears, tail position and watch the puppy for signs that he is getting too ‘in the face’ of the older dog and needs time apart to calm down.
 
Time
              Give the dogs time to become acquainted and adjusted.  This creates a foundation rather than forcing them into a relationship that isn’t comfortable.  Following the Rule of 3s, after about 3 weeks you should see things moving toward a comfortable co-existence and, depending upon the ages, playing together. 
 
Warnings
              Watch the body language.  Lots of licking can be a sign of increasing anxiety which means the dog is not adjusting to the new dog.  If the puppy yelps and the older dog does not back off but instead escalates it’s time for a break. You’ve hit the 3 week mark with no improvement.  Any of these should net a consult with a fear-free professional.   

The weather outside is frightful so I thought I'd give a few tips for easing your dog's fears or anxiety during storms. 
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​Is your dog reactive to other dogs while on walks? You know what I’m talking about.  That sweet, furry love of your life, who turns Cujo-like when he sees certain dogs (or all dogs). You aren't alone, it happens much more often than you realize. When it happens to you, tho, it seems much louder, much worse than when you see another dog react. This is normal because you aren't emotionally invested in someone else's dog but your dog can skewer your heart with this behavior..

You ARE  emotionally invested in your dog and this affects how YOU react to your dog's reaction. Embarrassment, nervousness, fear, shame...these are all normal feelings. That's when we typically begin to yell, cajole, threaten, plead for the dog to behave. "It's no big deal" "STOP IT" "C'mon, you know better than to act like this" "ENOUGH already!" Maybe throw in a prong collar or e-collar for good measure to punish the behavior in hopes that it will fix the situation. 
 
Instead, tho, the behavior eventually begins to escalate, getting worse.  The first step in addressing the behavior is not punishment or bribery but identifying what the dog is trying to tell you.  What they are trying to say is usually either “I’m so excited I don’t know how to control my behavior” or “I’m scared and need some space”.  Either way your dog is over threshold which means that learning is not going to happen.  Trying to yell or beg or bribe will not affect how the dog will react next time
 
 So what is a frazzled handler to do?  Take a deep breath, step to the side and say “lets go” while turning around and heading the other direction, increasing distance to that which they were reacting to.  Once the dog has calmed down and giving you good attention you reward this behavior.  Now it is important to make a plan that avoids these situations until your dog is ready and able to handle them. 
 
Contact a professional who is experienced and educated in science based methods to work with you and your dog.  One who understands that the research is very clear on how to best address the challenges for best results long term and has the experience to teach you and your dog.  No flooding, no forcing, no punishment.  Solid behavior help instead.  Your average dog trainer is just that, a dog trainer.  They aren’t educated or experienced in dealing with behavior issues in the best and most modern ways possible.  This isn’t about cookie pushing but in timing rewards so that counter conditioning occurs by changing the emotional response to the stimulus (the other dog).  Timing is everything, and must occur at precise moments with a high enough value reward while at the same time preventing over threshold or flooding situations where learning does not happen. 

If you can’t afford a behaviorist there are also online resources, such as CARE For the Reactive Dog, that can help the dog owner learn skills to address their dog’s challenges.   Beware of any trainer promising fast fixes…these fixes typically require use of punishment which may  suppress the behavior but does not fix the emotional response.  This can lead to even more challenging and dangerous behaviors later because the dog is still reacting but with a new level of fear added on. 
 
If a friend tries to help you because something worked with their dog remember that not all dogs are the same.  Educated and experienced trainers and behaviorists have spent countless hours learning about animal behavior and how to address these things in the best and safest way possible.  While your neighbor or friend may mean well, they haven’t put their heart and soul and wallet into learning the best methods to make your dog better.

With the warmer weather (or on rainy days) your dog may not be getting as many walks or even playing in the yard as much.  Adding mental stimulation (also called enrichment) to their day can be a big help in curtailing unwanted (and often destructive) behaviors that can be caused by boredom. A few suggestions:​

Teaching your dog the "find it" game is an easy one to do.  Initially you'll do this while the dog watches from a "wait":  toss a few treats on the   ground and then say "find it".  As the dog gets the point of the game hide a few treats in easy to find spots. Then up the ante and hide the treats in harder to find spots and move the dog out of the room.  You can also do  this game with a favorite toy. 

If you have a "stufficidal" dog that can destroy even the toughest of stuffy toys this works great: Use paper towel or toilet paper cardboard inserts. Put a couple of treats in them and then fold
the ends. You can also use small boxes or paper bags for this. 
Lick mats and Kongs are great.  We fill them with kibble or treats
and then put peanut butter or plain yogurt (be sure it's not sugar free
as the sugar substitutes can be dangerous to dogs) and then freeze or chill them (soft drink kosies are great to hold them ​upright so they don't make a mess in your fridge). This makes the Kong experience last longer. 

​Freezing ice cube trays or cookie cutters filled with  mixture of plain yogurt, canned pumpkin, broth, canned dog food, even blueberries in water are great treats in the heat and interesting to the dog. 

Hide and seek.  One person hides and then the other tells the dog to go find.  When the dog gets to the person hiding be sure to ask for a sit before rewarding (in this case you are the reward with big praise and attention.)  In addition to alleviating the boredom this also helps your dog learn to give wanted behaviors even when excited.

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