So called "balanced trainers" will often say that trainers must have more than one tool in their toolbox when justifying the use of aversives (prong collars, choke chains, e-collars, squirt bottles...)  Science based positive trainers have many tools in their tool box but NONE of these tools hurt or scare. Balanced trainers often jump to the aversive because they think a treat isn't working or "it's faster" but they don't step back and look at the big picture.  How does a science based trainer approach differ? We look at the big picture and then break it down and then focus on changing the dog's behavior. Let's take that common unwanted behavior of jumping on people.
 
1.  What is the unwanted behavior: Jumping
2.  When does it occur: People coming in the door 
3.  What is the motivator: Attention
4.  What is the wanted behavior: Sit

What do we need to do:  Manage the environment to prevent the behavior from continuing, teach and motivate the new behavior, teach the human how not ro reinforce the unwanted behavior when reintroducing the dog to the environment.

For the jumper we manage the environment by preventing Fido from being in the environment where the jumping occurs.  When someone is coming in the door have Fido outside or in another room. Next, we teach the new wanted behavior, sit, until sit is generalized to many situations, locations and with distractions.  Before we bring Fido back in we must teach the human that  any attention is good attention to a dog and rewards the unwanted behavior.  Yelling, waving your arms, pushing Fido away can be a favorite game.  Take all of this attention away by turning sideways with your arms crossed and no eye contact.   Say "sit" once and then wait for it. It's hard not to repeat the cue but it is important that the dog makes the choice to provide that behavior and it will get faster as they connect the reward to the behavior. 

​In the beginning  this takes time so don't try to do this part while you are in a hurry.  Jumping has given Fido a lot of attention in the past so he's going to have to work thru it in his brain that jumping no longer nets him any attention.  He may even do the sit a few times and then suddenly you may have what is called an "extinction burst".  This is when Fido, after doing well, reverts back to that unwanted jumping with a little more gusto in a last ditch attempt to get that jump to reward him with the attention.  He is thinking "it worked for a long time, surely it will work again".  Now is the time to stand firm.  Practice this every day with family members first, then ask friends to work with you.  Have treats by the door and tell visitors what you are working on and what you want them to do so that Fido has the best chance at being successful in learning to make the right choices.
 
This is how reward based training works.  We identify the challenge, identify the motivator (or reward). We identify the wanted behavior. We manage the unwanted behavior by preventing the situation. We teach the wanted behavior.  We ask for the wanted behavior while ignoring the unwanted behavior. This way we avoid punishments that the dog does not understand and, according to repeated studies, reward based training helps set up solid foundations that can prevent long term problems.  It allows the dog to learn to make right choices and build self control, creating a life long family member that you enjoy spending time with rather than a dog who is submitting out of fear of the next punishment. 
 

Does your dog like to dig or tear things up? These behaviors can be frustrating and very hard to stop. There is a simple solution, tho, that reduces the frustration for the dog and the  human.

Destruction Use enrichments that allow the dog to tear something up. Toss a couple of treats into a cardboard box, a paper towel insert or a paper bag that you then roll up. Yes they will make a mess but iti's an easy one to clean up and may save your furniture.

Digging set up a digging area where it is allowed. Motivate the dog to use this area by partially burying some favorite toys and then redirect  this area. They will learn to dig there rather than in your garden, along the fence or other areas.

Remember, the more mental stimulation they get the less you will see these types of unwanted behaviors.

​One of my hardest challenges as a dog owner is trimming the nails. I'm always nervous that I'll get the quick and that nervousness makes the dogs antsier. Not to mention how hard it is for me to exert enough pressure to clip a Great Dane's nails.

Zoinks breeder has been showing off how easy it is to dremel dog nails so I finally broke down and got the right bit and have been conditioning Zoinks to let me dremel her nails. This started slowly, first with the dremel off and then gradually increasing the speed (and noise) before ever touching the nails. I've now done a few sessions with her and it's gone amazingly well so we are now conditioning the others to it.
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To make a positive association with the dremel we use a lick mat smeared with peanut butter (make sure it doesn't have xylitol in it). Just use a small amount, smeared on the mat, and then chilled it goes a long way. You could also use plain yogurt, cheese, liver wurst or even canned dog food.

​What’s in a name?  Everything.  It is a cue that says “I’m talking to YOU, please pay attention to what I have to say.”  Unfortunately when we use our dog’s name we often “dilute” it.   Diluting a cue happens when it’s used to often, in too m any ways, and the meaning becomes too vague for the dog to understand. 
This happens often if we repeat it too many times or use one word for different uses.  An easy example is the cue “down”.  It may be used to ask the dog to lay down or it may be used to get the dog down from jumping or on furniture.  The dog starts to ignore the cue because he isn’t sure what it means.
A dog’s name often gets diluted.  We may mean “stop that” when they are doing something they shouldn’t, “leave it” when they are trying to get something they shouldn’t have, “come” when wanting them to come to you.  The dog knows you are talking to him but he doesn’t know what you want him to do.  So he starts to ignore it unless he has a second cue, such as plastic wrap crinkling or food hitting the dish, which tells him that something good may happen.
When you use a person’s name you engage with them. It means “I would like your attention, please”.  Dogs should have that same meaning attached to their name.  We start almost all new clients with this exercise.  It sets the foundation for all future communication with your dog.  It teaches your dog that when you say his name he should pay attention because you have something to tell him. 
Start in a quiet room with few distractions by saying your dog’s name.  Then wait 15 seconds for him to turn toward you.  He doesn’t have to make eye contact, just acknowledge that he heard you.  When he does say “yes” and offer him a small, soft treat.  If he hasn’t responded after 15 seconds repeat his name but adjust your pitch to help get his interest.  You want that 15 second delay before repeating the name so that it doesn’t blend together in the dog’s brain. 
Repeat this several times until he’s staring at you and waiting for the next treat.  Once that happens follow the name with a cue he knows, such as “Fido, sit”.  Or take this moment where you have his attention and teach him a new behavior.     
Gradually increase the distractions and change the environment, such as outside in the yard.  Randomly say Fido’s name and ask for a behavior, offer a toy or say “lets play” and engage in a game of tug.  Make sure you don’t use his name only to end his fun or he will start to ignore it.  You want to engage him once you’ve said his name.  Engaging with your dog will keep him focused on you when you need him to be.
 
 

Make a new toy out of an old toy and get rid of one of those old t-shirts stuffed in the back of your drawer at the same time.

Dogs wear muzzles for many different reasons, not just aggression.  

• They like to eat things they shouldn't
• They may be a bit hyper and mouthy 
• Practicing for a vet visit
• To ask for "space" so random people don't feel the need to approach and pet a dog who may not want to be petted
• A nervous handler needing more confidence in controlling an anxious dog during training 
• Protecting a new puppy when unsure how an older dog will adapt

Why is it a good practice to teach a dog to wear a muzzle?  Putting a dog into a situation where they are already uncomfortable and then adding the never-before-worn muzzle adds even more stress to the situation.  This means their next experience with training, at the vet or groomers will be even more stressful. 

My dogs are all muzzle trained.  Over the past couple of years our Desi has had a lot of vet visits due to skin issues.  As the vets and vet techs are climbing over this 150 pound Great Dane to examine and obtain scrapings and biopsies they need to feel safe in order to give him the best care.  I am not offended and actually offer to muzzle him.  I want to make sure he's getting the best care but I don't want him stressed out, either, since that can make his issues worse. 

We start muzzle training early.  We show them the muzzle, let them sniff and check it out, giving them treats.  Then we put treats in the muzzle so they can put their faces in to get the treats.  Once they are consistently putting their snouts in by their own choice we add the strap.  Then we secure it, very briefly, with a high value squirt of spray cheese added.  Gradually they wear it for longer and longer periods of time, adding activities such as going outside or for walks, always keeping it fun with high value treats.